View rawshark's Posts

Re: Nosepick Tailwhip posted on 2006-07-21 10:12:14

It's going to be a lot harder to learn to whip the bike around from the pedal...I'd suggest putting your pegs back on (and your front brake for that matter...)
Sounds like you're more into ramp riding though.

Re: WOF Monthly Challenge posted on 2006-07-21 09:38:30

Erm...don't you girls already have a 'monthly challenge'?

[size=10pt](Sorry...just...couldn't...resist it...)[/size]

Re: Nosepick Tailwhip posted on 2006-07-21 08:20:46

Like SNJflat said it's really just practice but here are some things that helped me.

1. Concentrate on getting your weight centered over the front wheel. Unless you're centered + balanced you'll never land it. Imagine a straight line running up through the center of your front wheel, through your jammed foot and up your leg. Get your body as close to this line as you can.

2. Try 2 be smooth as possible with the whip itself - extend your kicking leg a bit further than you think you have to so you can keep your balance, rather than just kicking the back end around wildly and losing balance.

3. Get off the grass - you need a FLAT surface for FLATland!

4. Watch for your landing spot as the bike whips round (the pedal or peg you want to land on)

Hope that helps!

p.s. the trick that SNJflat is describing (whiplash I think it's called) is IMHO harder than the footjam method.

Re: better crank? posted on 2006-07-18 11:08:35

I got the WTP Royals, all good so far. Nothing loose, no creaking and they feel solid as a rock. I've heard good things about the WTP BB, seems solid to me.
I almost bought the 41s but in the end they seemed too expensive.

Also, although I haven't tried to get the Royals off I can see how it would be a bitch...not looking forward to that day when it comes!
I'd say get the 41s as they're lighter.

S&M Grips SUCK! posted on 2006-07-16 03:21:45

...that's it really.

I'm sure alot of you knew that already but for those that didn't...don't waste your money. The first 'ply' wears out after a couple of hours and they soak up sweat like a sponge - it's like trying to hold on to a wet banana.
Might be alright with gloves though I don't know.

EDIT: I should say I'm talking about S&M DUAL PLY grips, just to be clear.

Re: How do i fit a 3 piece crank posted on 2006-06-26 11:52:42

Maybe I missed something, but you just need to know how to [b]get the old 1-piece crank OFF[/b], right? And then you need to [b]fit your new 3-piece crank[/b]...

I don't know about getting the old cranks off but the link I posted can help you get the new ones on.

By the way I run 33-13 and it's alright (but I ride mostly flat). Maybe that would be a good compromise?

Re: How do i fit a 3 piece crank posted on 2006-06-25 12:30:24

There are lots of guys with way more experience than me, but I just did the same thing and it's not too hard.
You can check this for some help:

[url]http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=143[/url]

You'll probably need a crank pulling tool to get the old ones off, and one to get the new ones on. My WeThePeople Royals came with a crank pulling tool included.
Just remember to clean & re-grease the spindle before you put the new cranks on, and make sure the sprocket hole is lined up with the hole in the crank.
Oh and don't forget to put the spacers in (check your chain alignment before you attach the non-drive side of the crank otherwise you'll have to pull them off again to adjust it!)

Like I said, I'm new to this though so maybe wait for someone more experienced to reply.

EDIT: Just noticed someone already did!

Re: Freewheel problems posted on 2006-06-25 12:18:07

Thanks dude I'll remember that. I already ordered the hub though - Odyssey Hazard Cassette. Hopefully it'll last a while!

Re: Freewheel problems posted on 2006-06-24 04:19:29

Thanks man, that was really helpful. I went to 2 different shops and they both said it was 'impossible' to change just the cup, and tried to sell me a whole new wheel....go figure!
Eventually I persuaded one to re-lace my existing wheel with a new hub that I'm going to order on the net.
And yes, you're right - the cones were loose when I stripped the wheel so I guess that's what caused the problem. I guess I was so worried about getting the BB in right that I forgot to check the rear wheel :roll:

Anyway thanks to everyone for the help, I'm learning alot!

Re: Freewheel problems posted on 2006-06-23 03:55:22

OK I cleaned the grease out and sure enough you were right - big dents in the cup. New hub then. :|

Re: Freewheel problems posted on 2006-06-22 11:02:16

OK I'll bear that in mind...I just don't want to wait another month for a hub to arrive! :x Plus I don't think I'm up to lacing the wheel by myself so I'd have to have the shop do it, which sucks because I don't really trust them...

In the meantime does anyone have any idea why the bearings on the drive side were smaller & more numerous? Is that normal??

Just that if I do end up trying to replace just the bearings (to see if it will run OK until I get a new hub) I don't know whether to get the same size or bigger ones.

Thanks.

Re: Freewheel problems posted on 2006-06-22 05:29:45

Dude thanks for the reply - I know it's almost impossible without seeing the bike / hearing the noises etc!

I stripped the rear wheel and the problem turned out to be the wheel bearings on the drive side (inside the rear hub). They look like this...

[url=http://imageshack.us][img]http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9417/bearings8iw.jpg[/img][/url]

Also the axle thread is kind of mangled where the loose bearings were rubbing:

[url=http://imageshack.us][img]http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/485/thread1rb.jpg[/img][/url]

I went to a bike shop to see what they said and basically he couldn't understand why the bearings were so small (they are smaller than the bearings on the other side and there are more of them. Here are the bearings on the other side:

[url=http://imageshack.us][img]http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/6277/bearings20bi.jpg[/img][/url]

Anyway, before he does any work I wanted a second opinion as this dude is always trying to get me to have stuff done that I don't need, plus he uses low quality parts so I'm probably better off doing it myself.

Sorry for the long post, thanks again!

Re: Freewheel problems posted on 2006-06-21 05:56:42

EDIT: I'm pretty sure the guy must have been talking only about the rear sprocket size, rather than the overall gearing. Didn't make sense when I read it but I just wanted to check.

Still would like to know what I can do about the freewheel problem - if it is dirt then[b] can I clean it without removing it?[/b] (I don't have a removal tool)

Thnx.

Freewheel problems posted on 2006-06-21 04:59:11

OK I just installed new cranks, bb and front sprocket & chain. Everything was running perfectly until today when I heard a weird clicking noise coming from the rear freewheel - then it started 'almost' seizing up.

I just searched and someone on these boards said that 'the lowest gearing you can run on a freewheel is 36-13' - I just changed to 33-13 from 36-13 - I don't understand but could this have caused my freewheel to shit itself?

Anyway, could it be I just got some grit or something in there or does it sound like I need to replace it?

If I do have to replace it then do I need to get a cassette instead of another freewheel?

As always thanks for the help!

Re: Help removing / installing new cranks & BB posted on 2006-06-18 04:06:26

Cool thanks for that.
None of the bike shops around me had either tool for sale so I ended up tapping them out with a hammer and screwdriver, which luckily worked out OK!
Plus the new BB didn't need any special tools to install, so it all went smoothly.

Help removing / installing new cranks & BB posted on 2006-06-15 10:24:33

Hi, well the new cranks finally arrived (thanks Winstanleys - only took them like a month and a half of f**king around...)
I just need a few pointers on installing them.

The old BB is Euro 'loose ball'.

[url=http://imageshack.us][img]http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4703/bb019fa.jpg[/img][/url]

The new one is WTP sealed.

Questions:
Do I remove the outer lockring first or the inner bit?
I presume I need a lockring wrench (for the outer ring) and a bottom bracket tool-thing for the inner ring, does that sound right? (if there's any way of doing it without these tools, let me know!)

Anyone know of any step-by-step guides on how to remove old BB and install new one?
Its just my first time and I really don't want to screw anything up.

Thanks for any help.

Recommendations for Cranks + Sprockets... posted on 2006-05-05 05:48:18

OK.. got chased out of the flatland forum for asking too many tech questions so here goes ;)

I need to choose a new front sprocket and cranks for mainly flatland riding, but also some light street stuff. I just want to lose some weight and get my chain tension/alignment dialed, which I can't do with my current shitty sprocket & BB...

Sprocket choices:
KHE Ninja (33T)
Shadow CrowLite (33T)
...any others? I could go down to 30T if you guys think it would work out OK (30-13?)

Crank choices:
We The People Royal 2006
Primo Powerbite
...any others? (I think Odyssey 41s are a bit over my budget)

I'm getting a bit lost with all the alternatives so if someone could help out with a good combination I'd appreciate it!

BTW the bike is a Hoffman Disruptor IL1 Euro BB, 13T Freewheel.

Thanks for any help.

Dumb question about gearing... posted on 2006-05-05 03:51:31

Thanks for the replies!
I don't think I can change my rear sprocket...I'm already stretching the budget getting new front sprocket & cranks. Plus I'm in Europe where everything costs shit loads...

So the choice is: do I get 33T or 30T?
33T would seem closer to your setup (33-13 = 32-12 ?)

Any recomendations for makes? I've been looking at:
KHE Ninja (33T)
Shadow CrowLite (33T)

..I want something light as possible but which stays straight!

Thanks for the help :)

Dumb question about gearing... posted on 2006-05-04 05:38:08

lol! that was actually going 2 be my next question...

Will I notice a big difference even if I go from 36T to 33T, or should I be looking at something smaller?
I don't know how much difference 3 teeth will make...

Like I said I don't want to mess with the gearing too much as I like being able to stay ahead of the crazy Italian traffic on the way to a spot ;)

thanks for the help.

Dumb question about gearing... posted on 2006-05-04 03:38:31

I'm about to change my front sprocket and I want one which will make it a little easier to ride out of flatland tricks.
I currently run 36-13
If I change to 33T or 30T will this make pedaling slightly easier?
I don't want to mess with the gearing too much, just a little...

Dumb question I know ;)