View jessiered's Posts
1 | 2 | 3 Next >>How to put brake guides tabs and mounts onto a frame? posted on 2005-05-28 06:24:32
[quote="ride9th"]use zip ties.. worked for me[/quote]
No.Zip ties will not work. I have tried it MANY MANY years ago. It will slip because of the braking load by using the dual cable setup. Even if it does it will only work for a while and will flex side to side on the round tube until it falls out to one side which is [size=24px]SHITE[/size].
I've had it with American Bottem brackets posted on 2005-05-27 08:03:19
[quote] Wow, their are some real asshole fagots on here. It appears that most of you would rather diss someone then offer suggestions to help the problem. I actaully know wht Jordan is talking about. I had this experiance before and it is what made me switch to Euro. What happened to me was very similar, its not the bearings like some of you asswipes think, but the cups themselves. They due tend to get frozen in over time {ever tried removing a old seatpost?}.
I am pretty rough on my bottom bracket {grinding it on rails, concrete, etc.}, so over time, the cups start folding over the outer edge of the bearing and can actaully wedge the bearing in. Now, when the remove the spindle and find that the spindle sleeve is locked in place {like in should be}, then you tend to have a problem actaully finding room to knock the whole cup out. But thats a whole different story.
ANyways, I dont agree with using a MAPP Torch, but hey, we have all done stupid things in desperation. Some of y'all should'nt talk.
And some of you maybe thinking "if you grind your bottom bracket, then why did you buy a euro, their soooooo shitty". This is why, easy to replace and like jordan, I can afford to fix my bike when somehting goes wrong. Come on, $30 for a new Euro bottom bracket, big fucking whoop.
SO a snapped my crank arm off last night, no biggie really, I can buy new cranks. Only problem is, I CANNOT get the old bottom bracket out . Its not the first one I have removed, I have done this more times then I want to admit, but this one IS NOT COMING out. I banged and banged, pryed, heated [with a MAPP gas torch}, even tried physically breaking the bearing out. All to no avail!
I am going to take it to bnike shop tomarrow and let someone else take car of it. Next year, when I buy a new frame, I am either getting Euro or Spanish. I'm leaning more toward Spanish since I the bearing are larger, but NO MORE AMERICAN for me
Wow, their are some real asshole fagots on here. It appears that most of you would rather diss someone then offer suggestions to help the problem. I actaully know wht Jordan is talking about. I had this experiance before and it is what made me switch to Euro. What happened to me was very similar, its not the bearings like some of you asswipes think, but the cups themselves. They due tend to get frozen in over time {ever tried removing a old seatpost?}.
[/quote]
[quote]
I am pretty rough on my bottom bracket {grinding it on rails, concrete, etc.}, so over time, the cups start folding over the outer edge of the bearing and can actaully wedge the bearing in. Now, when the remove the spindle and find that the spindle sleeve is locked in place {like in should be}, then you tend to have a problem actaully finding room to knock the whole cup out. But thats a whole different story.
ANyways, I dont agree with using a MAPP Torch, but hey, we have all done stupid things in desperation. Some of y'all should'nt talk.
And some of you maybe thinking "if you grind your bottom bracket, then why did you buy a euro, their soooooo shitty". This is why, easy to replace and like jordan, I can afford to fix my bike when somehting goes wrong. Come on, $30 for a new Euro bottom bracket, big fucking whoop.
[/quote]
I JUST realizeD that your problems arised in the first place was because of bloody ignorance. This whole thread should be erased into oblivion and forgotten.
I have removed literally DOZENS of USA bbs without that much of a hassle, some of which and the shell is beaten up and there were already built up and rusts in the shell.
There's a reason why they use soft alumnium for the cups.
You can remove the bloody thing by pushing the spacer tube to one side and put some thick rubber on it and bash it with a suitable shift.
If they don not come out as easily as it should because they "seized" in place you can use a deep penetrating lube fopr a while and BASH harder.
Put some wooden blocks below the frame between the BB and bash the shift on the spacer while moving the spacer sideways after a few sccessive taps until the cups come out.
Using a torch is simply daft as different materials have different rate of thermal expansion and the cups and shelll will expand outwards at different rate which makes them harder to remove.
[size=24px][color=red]COMMON SENSE AND CAUTION ARE FACTORS WHICH CANNOT BE BUILT INTO ANY BLOODY PRODUCT.[/color] [/size]
Re: How to put brake guides tabs and mounts onto a frame? posted on 2005-05-27 07:38:18
[quote="Scotty33"]Hello, im looking at this used frame and its a great deal cept it doesnt have brake mounts, pat at ff said you could weld them on but i dont really wanna do that, i know there are brake plates and its gonna run throught a gyro and i need to know if theres another way to get guides on and tabs on. Could i use one of the odyssey london mods or a primo pervert as a cable guide if somebody knew a way to get it on? and how would i get gyro tabs onto the frame? Does anybody know anything about the guiri tabs coming out on the new fly frames and if i could get those onto my frame?
Thanks,
Scott[/quote]
For brake mounts you have 3 choices one is to MIG/TIG weld it which I would not recommend unless the welder is an experienced in that area of welding and the frame's stays are thick enough to compensate for the HAZ. Second is to get them brazed which if done properly should make a reasonably strong joint for the bosses. With both methods you need to make a temporary jig out of steel/alum plate to bolt the bosses temporary while tacking/brazing it. You need to take the frame to your local metal fabrication workshop to do these proper. Additionally you need to miter the ands of the boss with a hole saw (in the machine shop) or a round file which takes forever.
The third method is the to use a brakeplate which is obviously relatively heavy and most likely not as stiff as the abovementioned methods.
For the gyro tabs you can use a gyro tab which comes with all normal gyros (unless you have a hiddenset or integrated headset)
For the cable guide you can get them welded or brazed (brazing should have a greater contact area than welding) If you can't you can make a ghetto temporary mod by cutting a gyro splitter slug and fasten them to the top/down tube with a (can't remember the name of this thing) which is like a small narrow hose clamp that comes in a box that you can cut and comes with a separate "buckle" which is available at good hardware shops.
It may stick out a little and can scratch you so you may want to wrap it with duct tape.
Re: Gyro With Integrated Head Tube???? posted on 2005-05-27 04:49:21
[quote="newfang"]ok I just picked up an FBM Deployer, and am using a linear cable for the time being untill I get a bit more cash. My old frame had tabs welded on the frame but this one doesnt. How do you set up a gyro (planing on the odyssey GTX-R) with no tabs on the frame? thanks[/quote]
I have answered your post in BMX Forum, New Fang. Didn't you read?
Re: I've had it with American Bottem brackets posted on 2005-05-27 04:44:29
[quote="Jordan Pope"]SO a snapped my crank arm off last night, no biggie really, I can buy new cranks. Only problem is, I CANNOT get the old bottom bracket out :x . Its not the first one I have removed, I have done this more times then I want to admit, but this one IS NOT COMING out. I banged and banged, pryed, heated [with a MAPP gas torch}, even tried physically breaking the bearing out. All to no avail!
I am going to take it to bnike shop tomarrow and let someone else take car of it. Next year, when I buy a new frame, I am either getting Euro or Spanish. I'm leaning more toward Spanish since I the bearing are larger, but NO MORE AMERICAN for me.[/quote]
Most likely the problem was originated from the bearing cups being machined slightly oversized or the BB shell was machined slightly smaller that the interference fit is too tight which is not uncommon with USA BB.
Also it is probable no layer of thin grease was used during installation thus making the cups seized to the shell as a result of different materials on the assemby.
If you installed it properly in the first place they wouldn't have seized.
I always measure the cups before installation and turned it on a 3 jaw chuck on the lathe but sanding them down is OK.
The "newer" standards seem to have a better interference fit than most USA shell which will put these problems to rest.
g sport + oddysey!! posted on 2005-02-27 12:11:06
[quote="sHaBuBu"]the thing is, why hasnt this been moved?
gsport makes nothing remotely related to flatland....who fucking cares?[/quote]
Uhmmm no.....
He did design the Elementary stem "by" Odyssey. I am seeing an increasing number of flatland riders using the stem just because they work very well and ummm let me see cause they will NEVER pinch out like your normal stem apart form being light, apart from being a revolutionary design in the last 10 years heck maybe more than that...
The monkey hubs are being used by an increasing number of flat riders simply said becasue they are light AND strong.
....who fucking cares? [color=red]Implicitly[/color]. Only a daft and an arrogant unrepentant regretfully ignorant foolish moron would ever say that...
:lol:
g sport + oddysey!! posted on 2005-02-27 11:51:47
Wow as an avid fan and user of G_SPOrT products I am very surprised about the direction of this thread was going...
[quote="jiheison"][quote="Jas0n 0n a BIKE"]Art and Design are two TOTALLY different aspects, agreed.
Explanation:
Art is a form of EXPRESSION.
Design:
To create or contrive for a particular [b]purpose or effect[/b]: a game designed to appeal to all ages.
To have as a [b]goal or purpose[/b]; intend.B[/quote]
Are you saying that nothing is expressed by the design of a G-Sport hub? I disagree. The design of most any object involves choices and compromises through which the designer expresses something about his or her perspective and priorities. Especially an object where "best" is inherently subjective.
[color=red]Using generic bolts instead of a proprietary axle is an example of a design decision that could be construed as a political statement.[/color]
G-Sport's take on 36H hubs is/was another instance of a personal opinion expressed as a design decision.
etc.
Dictionaries and textbooks are a fine place to start, but. . .[/quote]
You may have your own opinions as everyone in here, as everyone is an individual, and an individual can state his/her own opinion. Each to his/her own.
But I'm going to state my opinion from a technical standpoint... You have your own way of saying, as I do...
He uses standardized bolts NOT "generic" instead of the male and nut axle because not only the bolt is modular, they can be obtained in varying degrees of yield strenght and carbon content and lenghts from your favorite bolt stockist quite cheap, and when properly fastened has more than two times the thread engagement of a typical bolt nut axle, which translates to a very high tightenig torque capability so as running a chain tensioner is redundant thus saving weight as well as the likeliness of stripping the bolts would be much much much less likely than the machined nut, employed on most axle-nut hubs, because standardized high carbon bolts have threads that are rolled, increasing the nominal yield strenght of the threads and by having an increased thread engagement means the likeliness of them bending is much much less likely, coming that even 14mm axles sometimes bend to confirm with a frame's dropouts as a result of welding distrotion.
The massive hollow axle is actually lighter than a 14mm solid axle, but they are massively stiffer and stronger, against repeated bending loads that would result in fatigue because of the increased second moment of area thus translates to an almost indestrcutible axle. The increased OUTER diameter of the hub shell also increases the stiffness without the increase of undue weight because of the second moment of area. There is no cones to adjust so yadda yadda yadda ok I'll shut up now.... :roll:
I don't think mr. George French has anything of political intention concerning the use of a standardized bolt with a hollower female axle, but then again that's just an observation form another individual....
Powerbites or phat black widows? posted on 2005-02-27 11:15:52
Both are good cranks for flat. If you want a lighter one but still works REALLY well go with the Black Widow. If you want a masssively strong crank that can even withstand both flat and park/street abuse go with Pbs or the Hollowbites...
whats your style? "tech" or "burly"?? (N posted on 2005-02-27 11:04:04
I think this thread should have a poll or something... so you can get a basic idea how many riders are into tech or big tricks... Actually I'm very curious about the numbers of tech riders in here....
Anyone get screwed by standard's warranty? posted on 2005-02-27 10:17:29
Just don't buy into the "heat treated" tubing bollocks, like the supertherm, ox platinum, reynolds...
The way that BMX companies are marketing ther stuff nowadays saying that a "heat treated" "fancy" chromoly tube which is welded together using "hot metal piss" in room temperature is going to make a "stronger" AND lighter frame is utter bollocks. That fact alone is an indivation that they are "ripping" riders off by misleading. Misleading = lying. Uh-oh! :shock:
Unfortunately if I were to indulge in explaining this EVERYONE in here would get bored to death listening to the vague, boring and technical
ramblings, but one thing for sure:
Don't take their marketing babble as gospel just so because they are a "rider owned" company, .
Re: Whats this type of pedal stall called? posted on 2005-02-25 01:15:56
[quote="bluemeate"]Yeah, I have been trying pedal stalls, but not the kind where one pedal is on the ledge, and the tire is on the ledge, but I hop onto a 1 foot long ledge on my pedal with my crank arm pointing down if you can imagine that, so that all my weight is on the pedal. Understand what I mean? It's like my tires and are just dangling in the air. Well I've been trying these, and can just about get on them and hold them up every 1 out of 5 times or so, but I want to learn to hop out of them. I can't even get myself to hop when I'm in that position, is there a certain thing I method I should learn or something?
And what would this be called? Cuase it's different than pedal Stalls I see others doing.[/quote]
[b]Foot down![/b]
Just kidding...
headset posted on 2005-02-25 01:03:12
There's a headset installation diagram here by me:
http://www.bmx-test.com/cgi-bin/image.cgi?category=user&key=Righthanddrive&view=full
Remember "IF the flat part of the cage is on the outside edge then it goes outwards BUT if the flat part is on the inside then it goes towarss the cup. Make sure you use a lot of nice thick grease and don’t forget the gyro if you use one…"
How strong is titanium posted on 2005-02-25 00:55:34
Titanium alloy indeed 'bend' - called yielding. In fact one of the sought after properties of titanium is they yield before they "snap" - even this does not happen with the titanium normally employed in BMXcycles.
This is becasue if they yield before they snap it will give a warning to the user, so instead of them "snapping" unexpectedly they will yield the fuck out before they ever "snap", saving you from landing onto your bollocks.
Typically Titanium has a stiffness HALF of that chromoly so using 3/8" is not recommended. Like the rider on top of me stated they "flex" called deflection, so given a dimension with the same as 4130 they will be less stiffer than 4130.
The 3/8" titanium axle sold in the market does not have any exact specification other than they are "aerospace grade" which makes the meaning useless. One of the strongst titanium alloys called 6AL 4V has a yield strength of 128000psi, and 3Al 2V Ti ( a 'lower grade) is lower than this, then again the strength of the "heat treated" 4130 axles in the market is anyones guess since "heat treated" does not give a jack ass shit on how "strong" they are and by just looking at the "exicing" properties of these materials also does not actually tell you the whole story...
Cutting off the technical bollocks practically if you want a strong axle but do not need the strenght of a 14mm axle you have to get one of those "heat treated" axles by Kink relatively cheap. Save time, money and effort by buying the cheaper product that works very well. Just ride your bike and be concerned about HOW you will be riding it and how it will last, not how expensive or how light it is...
Sorry for being all technical here but it is unavoidable...
Ask a technical question, get a technical answer,
get it,
got it,
good...
fsa headset posted on 2005-01-26 19:55:27
*edit*
[b]with[/b] their headset.
fsa headset posted on 2005-01-26 19:54:04
forgot about the bearings.
"IF the flat part of the cage is on the outside edge then it goes outwards BUT if the flat part is on the inside then it goes towards the cup."
jesse
fsa headset posted on 2005-01-26 19:48:15
[img] http://www.bmx-test.com/cgi-bin/image.cgi?category=user&key=RightHandDrive&view=full[/img]
I think bike companiies should put some diagrams/instructions on their headset. How hard is to make a piece of photocopied instructions sheet that cost only a few pence? :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
ok enough rambling.
Use a headset press.
Make your own. Buy a big bolt 6 1/2" long or so with washers for the size of the bolt and the size of the cups.
Grease the thereads of the bolt and the cups. Press one the cups one by one. Put the cup between the washer with the whole bolt caboodle throughthe headtube.
Tighten it slowly until the cup is completely butted to face of the headtube.
Repeat with the other cup. Don't forget any gyro plate (if you use one)
Use copious amount of grease on the bearings.
Ride and have fun. =)
ps There is no such thing as a stupid BMX rider putting parts trogether, only stupid bike companies... :lol:
[/img]
squeaky powerbites posted on 2005-01-26 19:14:13
^^^^
That's a good tip.
:)
ill be shocked if i am the first to ask.... posted on 2005-01-25 11:26:19
eh I guess I screwed up....
ill be shocked if i am the first to ask.... posted on 2005-01-25 11:17:48
What's wrong with pedal bmx these days?
First the new 'makeover', now this?!?!
:evil: :evil: :evil:
ill be shocked if i am the first to ask.... posted on 2005-01-25 11:17:01
No more WOF forum?
What's wrong with pedal bmx these days?
First the new 'makeover', now this?!?!
:evil: :evil: :evil:
