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Re: dita geo posted on 2006-07-12 23:44:25

I love DITAs. :-( I had a DITA complete stolen like....4 years ago.

I still like it.

Re: Im Quite Confused posted on 2006-07-12 23:41:15

If you didn't order yet, I warn you that those cranks, though aluminum, aren't light.

and they creak alot. and they are more prone to snap than cromoly.

about the only advantage to them is their thinner profile.

I would suggest Profiles, or the Odyssey 41 thermals.

Re: York Jam shots posted on 2006-07-12 23:36:13

nice pics! everytime I see a Sinus frame...I want one.

and I see Cerra has that limited edition hemmerhoid. I have that, and it wiggles. I thought Cerra was a 99er guy?

Re: .gif feeble stall milk crates posted on 2006-07-12 23:31:31

lol if you can 90 in you can 90 out! learn to hop out straight so you don't break your wheels so fast!

cell phone vids are awesome.

Re: Jay Dehart sick street clip posted on 2006-07-12 23:29:52

It wasn't that sick...mad scene though.

Re: if money was no concern posted on 2006-07-12 23:22:22

I'm not trying to come off rude here, but after a 17yr. break...You're gonna have to get re-adjusted to so much, that you might as well just buy a complete 'new-school' bike and get riding again. As your going along, buy new parts to your liking (like bars, cranks, seat, etc.)

the bikes nowadays have TT lengths often LONGER than old school bikes, but we don't ride 28" wide bars, laid back seat posts, long cranks, and tall BB height. So things really have changed for the better. The geometry makes many tricks pop up or swing around MUCH easier. And after so long a break, why get onto a bike that fights your movements?

Re: What in the world is myspace doing? posted on 2006-07-11 01:26:12

My CPU usage is pretty low, around 15%?

I dunno, weird. It wouldnt suprise me though.

Volkswagen! posted on 2006-07-11 01:24:08

any VW lovers? I drive a golf now, and I plan on buying one of those damned new VW Rabbits, they seem fun.

It's basically a Saab 9 3 hatchback, but German instead of Swedish. 2.5L 5-cylinder, and you can get one all spec'd out on the site to be like...16,000. I was gonna just get an old GTI, but there something about the Rabbit.

post pictures if you got em!

Re: Xtrme Piks of Me riddIng posted on 2006-07-08 01:59:03

I like the GT mags on the low-end Haro. Someone obviously knows that some parts take precedence.

Re: Lets talk about seats and seatposts... posted on 2006-07-08 01:53:23

well, the problem there is that I don't like the Odyssey 99er seat. :-(

keep the posts coming, lets resolve this, so everyone can know what does/does not work.

Re: did i miss york Jam posted on 2006-07-06 03:29:45

I havent head much about york jam this year.

don't worry about the poser title, its only there cus of your post number.

Re: Chain tension/alignment and sprocket problem posted on 2006-07-05 23:10:20

It sounds like you should check your crankarm bolt that grabs to your chainwheel. it may be over tightend, or it needs a spacer somewhere.

with to much pressure, it could maybe even bnd the sprocket. :-)

Lets talk about seats and seatposts... posted on 2006-07-05 23:06:52

There shouldn't evr be a compatibility issue! shouldn't they adapt a standard size?

but anyways, I was riding a KHE Watanbe seat on an Odyssey Intac post. The seat broke, mainly because it was designed to not be riden or something. But at least the seatpost did a good job of grabbing it.

I purchased the old standby, the Pr1mo Hemmerhoid. I stumbled upon one of the Limited Edition color schemes, white plastic with baby blue seat. Alloy rails with welded brace.

of course, nothing can be perfect...the seat wiggles on the rails. theres is a gap where it was assembled so the rails have free room to move within the seat. :?
has anyone had that problem? and perhaps made a shim to fit the seat better, or some other way to stop wiggling?

Also the intac posts rail indents in the gut don't grab the seat rails properly, the guts are too wide for the rails. when will it end?

SOOO I'm asking everyone (especially flatlanders, sorry) about what seatpost they use, what seat they use, and how well it works. anyone ripped a Macneil seat to shreds? is the rear grab sufficient?

Lets just have a discussion on seats. I've honestly considered designing my own. :-o

Re: my dave mirra signature fram posted on 2006-07-05 22:58:44

I just had to click on this post.

It was too good to be true...

Re: freecoaster posted on 2006-07-05 22:28:19

I'm not 100% on this, but Hoffman used a Taska freecoaster with HB sticker on it. On their new models of EP/Momentum, they have the Nankai Techno-Lite freecoaster.

FlatlandFuel sells the Taska for like...35$ or somthing (I don't feel like checking) so you may not have gotten that great of a deal.

And if your using it for street that your heading in the wrong direction. (at least in the freecoaster market)

Re: Trick of the Month....Firehydrant posted on 2006-07-05 22:20:03

firehydrant to squeaker, seat grab squeaker jump to switch hand steamroller. :)

Re: LEARNED MY LESSON posted on 2006-06-26 13:00:40

my bike is 26.8lbs, and almost built for street :-) you'd probably like it.

federal hamilton frame, 19"
35mm reach 88 stem.
minimal offsest odyssey fork
odyssey 41 thermal cranks
funtion pegs.

about the only thing on my bike I might call weak are the Suelo 9-butted bars, super light, but I bought them for their feel and look! I had no idea they were so crazy light, lol.

Re: Ive decided not to upgrade major parts yet posted on 2006-06-26 12:57:11

a word of warning, you WONT want to use the hitchiker rings. they are grip rings, not bar ends. the are meant to sit where the brake levers would be, so brakeless/1-brake riders dont kill their grips. they dont have a lip on them, so if you put them on the end of your bars, they will slide down and cause all kinds of trouble.

not to mention, they weigh alot, and stick out enough to hurt your fingers. I like the hiker rings, but I now ride a ODI grip stop in place of them, because I dont drag or scrape that often anymore. :-)

if you cant get the camacura stainless bar ends, try the 88 barends? anyhting along those lines is great. steel is where its at. Titanium is ok, it wears faster than steel, but it does weigh less. (only good if you have alot of money to spare)

Re: Erin Donato flatland posted on 2006-06-26 12:39:13

my favorite video it the noobs riding street and an old school flatlander doing lots of pogos put together to Fall Out Boy. :lol:

Re: Ive decided not to upgrade major parts yet posted on 2006-06-26 12:35:16

well it kind of depends on the money situation...but you never really replace something unless its worn out...or it just SUCKS.

I recall you joining onto the forum...It wasnt like, last week, but it wasnt a long time go either. I'd say your tires probably show a bit of wear...so those would be safe to replace. same with bar ends. in the beginning, we fall constantly, and plastic barends wont last you.

any metal barend will do fine. I prefer steel because they last alot longer than aluminum (aluminum also wears into sharp point and cut your hands) In my opinion, the Camacura Stainless Steel are the nicest ones out. well worth it.

honestly...in the beginning, tires are tires. You pobably won't feel or know any difference between Elms or Frequency G's. their both rated for 120psi, and have little rolling resistance. So go with what looks best?

I ride the Frequency G's, I do alot of spinning, turbining, rolling, etc. and I love the Frequency G for it. A friend of mine who does alot fo scuffing tricks remains loyal to Elm Streets because they are a bit more agressive, and perfect for scuffing.

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